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  • Vineyard Mechanization Through Stone Tower Winery to the EWE

    Posted: 2026-03-12 13:45

    Alex Gamez, (Vineyard Manager, Stone Tower Winery) will focus on the persistent issue of soil erosion on steep terrain, detailing the practical steps taken to stabilize these slopes, including the use of a 1,200-lb. tandem disk harrow and aerial drone spraying. He will also touch on the adoption of laser bird deterrents and half-track tractors as part of a broader shift toward terrain-adapted vineyard management. - Session V06 | Vineyard Mechanization Update | Eastern Winery Exposition

    Traditional tilling refers to the long-standing agricultural practice of mechanically agitating soil to prepare a seedbed, control weeds, and incorporate crop residues or fertilizers.  It typically involves primary tillage—such as ploughing with a mouldboard or chisel plow—to invert and loosen the soil to depths of 10–25 cm—followed by secondary tillage (e.g., disking, harrowing) to create a fine, smooth seedbed. This method is commonly known as conventional tillage, where less than 15% of crop residue remains on the soil surface after planting.  It is widely used in smallholder and commercial farming, especially where animal-drawn plows or tractors are available. The goal is to produce a weed-free, aerated, and well-structured seedbed that promotes rapid germination and root development. 

    However, traditional tilling has significant drawbacks: it increases soil erosion, degrades soil structure, and accelerates organic matter loss.  Tillage erosion is a major form of soil degradation caused by conventional tilling practices, where mechanical implements move soil downslope. This erosion is even more pronounced on steep terrain and is a difficulty that Alex Gamez and Stone Tower Winery faced on one particularly plot where trenches that formed became more dangerous for traditional machinery and personnel. 

    Stone Tower Winery farms 93 acres of vines, making it the largest estate vineyard in Virginia's Loudoun County. Managing this large estate is even more complex as the dozens of different grape varieties are planted across multiple terrains.  One of these being this steep seven acre plot will be the focus of his presentation in the V06 | Vineyard Mechanization Update session at the upcoming Eastern Winery Exposition.  

    Alex will present the practical steps that Stone Tower used to stabilize this slope which including changing the machinery and relying on 3rd party aerial drone technology for fungicide and pesticide applications.  The powerful and stable half-track tractor navigates both slope trajectories providing safe usage for the team. It enables them to amend the soil more often than once a year and, along with the drone, helps minimize foot traffic on the steep slope.  Other challenges that he may mention are their plans to limit harm from the spotted lantern fly as well as the possibility of Pierce's Disease in the vineyard. 

    Visitors to the winery will be impressed with the estate's rolling hills and the mountainous backdrop. Also impressive are two wines that winemaker James Phillips vinified from field blends. The first is the Sycolin Creek - a Rhone styled blend of 48% Viognier, 29% Roussanne, 21% Marsanne, 2% Grenache Blanc. Although the Viognier and Roussanne ripen very similarly, the Marsanne is later so the grapes are harvested when the Marsanne is a little under-ripe. The result is a very delicious and interesting wine where five months in French oak provide just enough texture without losing flavor and acidity. Similarly the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes for their Rosé (40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Cabernet Franc, 36% Merlot) are a field blend harvested specifically for a direct press rosé styled wine. The Merlot was barrel fermented and provides fruitiness and texture to this refreshing wine.
  • The Essence of the Olive: The Health Benefits of Extra Virgin Olive Oil

    Posted: 2026-03-09 07:00

    The mission of the World Olive Center for Health (WOCΗ) is to certify olive oil with a health claim, train producers, and support targeted research on the health protecting and therapeutic properties of all olive products, with the ultimate target to increase the nutritional and economic value of olive oil.  -- WOCΗ

    What Modern Research—and the World Olive Center for Health—Shows Us

    Extra virgin olive oil has been part of human diets for thousands of years, but only in the last few decades have scientists begun to understand why it supports long‑term health so effectively. The World Olive Center for Health (WOCH), based in Athens, has played a central role in gathering, verifying, and communicating research on the biological activity of high‑phenolic extra virgin olive oil. Their work brings clarity to a topic that is often clouded by marketing language and inconsistent product quality. A sample PDF analysis is available for the Laconiko Olio Nuovo 2026.

    The World Olive Center for Health is actively training producers to maximize the natural health benefits of their olive oil by focusing on practices that raise and preserve phenolic content. Their programs emphasize early‑harvest timing, careful fruit handling, and precise milling conditions that protect delicate bioactive compounds such as >oleocanthal and oleacein. WOCH also teaches producers how to monitor phenolic levels through accredited laboratory testing, helping them understand how cultivar choice, irrigation, extraction temperature, and storage conditions influence the final chemical profile. By combining scientific guidance with practical, field‑level training, the Center equips growers and millers to consistently produce high‑phenolic oils that meet both quality standards and documented health criteria. Here is a PDF Guide for the production of high phenolic olive oil with health protective properties.

    This article walks through the major health benefits identified in WOCH‑supported studies, explains the compounds responsible for these effects, and offers a grounded view of how EVOO fits into a modern, balanced diet.

    A Unique Profile of Bioactive Compounds

    All extra virgin olive oils contain monounsaturated fats, but what sets high‑quality oils apart is their phenolic content—a group of natural compounds that act as antioxidants and anti‑inflammatory agents. WOCH focuses particularly on oils rich in:

    • Oleocanthal – known for its ibuprofen‑like anti‑inflammatory activity
    • Oleacein – a strong antioxidant linked to vascular protection
    • Hydroxytyrosol – one of the most potent natural antioxidants identified
    • Oleuropein aglycone – associated with cellular protection and metabolic support

    These compounds vary widely among producers, cultivars, and harvest methods. WOCH’s testing and certification programs help identify oils with consistently high phenolic levels, which is important because many of the documented health benefits depend on these compounds being present in meaningful concentrations.

    Anti‑Inflammatory Effects: A Foundation for Better Health

    Chronic, low‑grade inflammation is a contributing factor in many modern diseases, including cardiovascular disease, metabolic disorders, and neurodegenerative conditions. Oleocanthal—the compound responsible for the peppery sensation in the throat—has been shown to reduce inflammatory markers in the body.

    WOCH highlights research demonstrating that regular consumption of high‑phenolic EVOO can:

    • Reduce inflammatory signaling
    • Support the body’s natural repair processes
    • Improve resilience against long‑term inflammatory stress

    These effects are not dramatic or immediate; instead, they accumulate quietly over time, supporting overall health in a steady, measurable way.

    Cardiovascular Protection: The Most Established Benefit

    The strongest body of evidence relates to heart and vascular health. WOCH emphasizes several mechanisms through which EVOO supports cardiovascular function:

    • Reduced Oxidation of LDL Cholesterol: Oxidized LDL is more harmful than LDL itself. EVOO’s polyphenols help prevent this oxidation, lowering one of the key risk factors for atherosclerosis.
    • Improved Endothelial Function: The endothelium—the thin lining of blood vessels—responds positively to the antioxidant and anti‑inflammatory properties of EVOO. Better endothelial function supports healthier blood flow and blood pressure.
    • Favorable Lipid Profiles: Replacing saturated fats with EVOO can improve HDL levels and reduce overall cardiovascular risk.

    These findings align with decades of Mediterranean diet research, but WOCH’s work underscores that phenolic concentration matters. Oils with higher phenolic content show stronger protective effects.

    Antioxidant Activity and Cellular Protection

    Oxidative stress is a natural part of metabolism, but excessive oxidative stress contributes to aging and chronic disease. EVOO’s phenolic compounds help neutralize free radicals and protect cells from damage. WOCH‑highlighted research points to several benefits:

    • Reduced DNA oxidation
    • Slower cellular aging processes
    • Enhanced resilience against environmental stressors

    Hydroxytyrosol, in particular, has been studied for its ability to protect cells even at low concentrations.

    Cognitive Health and Neuroprotection

    Emerging research suggests that high‑phenolic EVOO may support brain health. WOCH has shared studies showing improvements in markers related to memory, learning, and oxidative stress in the brain. While EVOO is not a treatment for neurological disease, its regular use appears to:

    • Support healthier brain aging
    • Reduce oxidative stress in neural tissue
    • Improve certain cognitive markers in clinical studies

    This area of research is still developing, but the early findings are promising and consistent with the broader anti‑inflammatory and antioxidant profile of EVOO.

    Metabolic Support and Blood Sugar Regulation

    Several studies referenced by WOCH indicate that EVOO can support healthier metabolic function. Benefits include:

    • Improved insulin sensitivity
    • Better post‑meal blood sugar response
    • Support for weight management when used in place of saturated fats

    These effects stem from the combination of monounsaturated fats and phenolic compounds working together to support metabolic balance.

    Why Daily Use Matters

    One of WOCH’s central messages is that the benefits of EVOO come from consistent, daily consumption. Most studies showing measurable health effects involve one to two tablespoons per day as part of a balanced diet.  WOCH also emphasizes:

    • Choosing oils tested for phenolic content
    • Using EVOO as the primary household fat
    • Favoring early‑harvest, cold‑extracted oils for higher phenolic levels

    The goal is not to treat disease but to support long‑term health through a nutrient‑dense, antioxidant‑rich food. Extra virgin olive oil is not a miracle cure, but it is one of the most thoroughly studied and consistently beneficial foods available. The World Olive Center for Health has helped bring scientific clarity to its effects, especially the role of phenolic compounds in supporting cardiovascular, metabolic, and cognitive health.

    Next article: Greece’s Enduring Landscape through the ultra premium olive oils from Laconiko.

  • Regenerative Viticulture at The Vineyards at Dodon

    Posted: 2026-03-05 19:00

    "With nature as our guide and learning from those who went before us, we seek to reduce our chemical and physical footprint while returning life and biology to the landscape. It starts by enhancing the biodiversity within and around the vineyard. Spontaneously growing, native and naturalized cover crops, compost, and livestock regenerate soil, add microbial diversity, and restore underground ecosystems." -- The Vineyards at Dodon

    During the upcoming 2026 Eastern Winery Exposition, Tom Croghan, executive winemaker and co-owner of The Vineyards at Dodon, will provide two seminars on Regenerative Viticulture. In general, regenerative farming is a conservation‑driven approach to agriculture that focuses on rebuilding soil, restoring biodiversity, and strengthening the natural systems that make food production resilient. It emphasizes practices such as improving topsoil structure, enhancing the water cycle, and increasing on‑farm ecological diversity, all with the goal of creating healthier, more self‑sustaining landscapes. It prioritizes profitability through reduced input costs—such as fertilizer and pesticides—while improving long-term resilience and productivity.

    The Dodon Farm

    The Dodon farm has a long history from Colonial times to the present which is much too long and complex for this feature but is hinted at through the winery's wine labels. The farm "consists of 555 acres in its current configuration, comprising roughly 400 acres of woodland, 65 acres of pasture, 65 acres of cropland, 17 acres of planted vineyards, and 15 acres of 'farmstead' – houses, barns, sheds, roads, and other non-tillable areas. Since 2010, the vineyard and winery have occupied a section of about 43 acres in the northeastern corner of the property. This estate has more than 31,000 vines densely planted over 17 acres in three adjacent vineyards."

    According to the winery's website, "It is a difficult site for agriculture, but it is perfect for a vineyard when coupled with scrupulously tended vines, a nurturing climate, and passionate people. The soils are infinitely complex, a mosaic of nearly a billion years of orogeny and erosion to the west, the rise and fall of oceans during the Miocene, and hundreds of years of human cultivation. Recognizing their distinctive characteristics, they have been designated 'Dodon-series' by the United States Department of Agriculture. They are naturally drained by slope and sandy texture, yet they also include a modest distribution of clay that provides a regular supply of water. At more than 3,000 feet to bedrock, their depth and decomposing shells provide texture and fragrance to the wine....

    The climate at Dodon complements the soils and the varieties. The rainfall accelerates weathering of the soils, releasing minerals and creating the environment in which the vines grow. Moderate temperatures during the last weeks of September slow ripening, allowing full expression of aroma and balanced tannins that preserve flavor and extend aging in the bottle. "

    Regeneration as a Working Framework

    Dodon’s team treats the vineyard as a living system rather than a production surface. Their environmental policy emphasizes soil structure, microbial life, and long-term ecological resilience. This includes minimizing external inputs, eliminating pollution, and strengthening the social and ecological environment around the farm. Each full‑time team member takes responsibility for a specific environmental focus area, reinforcing that regeneration is not a side project but the organizing principle of the farm’s daily work. 

    Several practices stand out:

    • Soil‑first viticulture — Farming decisions prioritize soil organic matter, water retention, and microbial diversity. This aligns with the estate’s goal of restoring functioning ecosystems and sequestering carbon. 

    • Biodiversity enhancement — Habitat restoration and diversified plantings support beneficial insects, birds, and soil organisms, reducing reliance on chemical interventions. 

    • Low‑impact management — The vineyard seeks to reduce its chemical and physical footprint, using ecological processes to manage vine vigor, pests, and disease pressure. 

    These practices are not framed as innovations but as a return to ecological common sense—an approach that sees the vineyard as part of a broader landscape.

    Again, according to their website, "acres of pollinator meadows and hedgerows that include traditional indigenous food sources like hazelnuts, dwarf chestnuts, and Chickasaw plums provide beneficial insects with the food, shelter, and breeding areas they need to thrive. These 'natural areas' cover more than half of the 43 acres we manage. ..The biodiversity also creates the conditions to store water for drought and allow it to infiltrate during intense downpours. The combination of grasses and woody plants stabilizes the soil, preventing erosion and nutrient pollution. Disease-suppressive soils protect the vines from microbial pests. Improved nutrition creates healthier plants and more expressive wines. As a result, we’ve reduced insecticide use by 70% and fungicide use by a third."

    The Dodon Center for Ecological Farming

    Croghan’s background as a physician‑scientist informs his methodical, evidence‑driven approach to farming. He leads the estate’s environmental efforts and has become a central voice in Maryland’s ecological viticulture community.  His work emphasizes the idea that vineyards can function as carbon sinks, biodiversity corridors, and educational spaces while still producing high‑quality wine.

    Along with co‑owner Polly Pittman, Croghan also helped establish the Dodon Center for Ecological Farming, a nonprofit dedicated to training, collaboration, and research in regenerative agriculture. Workshops hosted at the vineyard bring together practitioners and educators to explore holistic decision‑making, soil health, and ecological vineyard design. 

    The Vineyard as an Ecological Classroom

    Visitors to Dodon encounter a working farm where regenerative practices are visible rather than abstract. We participated in a guided tour and tasting last weekend which included discussions of cover crops, soil structure, and the long-term ecological goals of the estate.  General Manager Regina McCarthy started by describing the farms history, soil enhancements and composition, and Croghan’s quest to turn the farm into a comprehensive ecosystem.  

    The tour also stressed Dodon's use of farm animals for fertilization and as an alternative to mowing. The fertilizations starts with an estate compost which is augmented by soil decomposing under fallen woodland trees. This increases the range of the domestic microbes within the soil.  The sheep and pigs are also fed crab meal which contains nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, and chitin -- a natural compound that stimulates beneficial soil microbes, suppresses nematodes and fungal pathogens, and improves soil structure, drainage, and water retention.  

    Another eye-opening aspect of the tour was learning how the farm attempts to naturally handle pests and diseases. They created a meadow near the vines to attract beneficial insects.   Ladybugs and lacewings are among the most effective beneficial insects in vineyards, feeding on aphids, mealybugs, and other soft-bodied pests.  Predatory mites, such as phytoseiidae, target red and yellow spider mites that damage grape leaves and reduce photosynthesis, helping maintain vine health without chemical intervention.  Parasitic wasps, like Anagrus species, lay eggs in pest insect eggs—such as those of grape leafhoppers—preventing them from hatching and reducing pest populations naturally.  And praying mantises, earwigs, and syrphid flies (hoverflies) also play key roles as generalist predators, consuming a wide range of pests and contributing to balanced vineyard ecosystems. Regina told a story how during the summer they watch praying mantises lunching on spotted lantern flies like burritos. 

    While walking in the vineyard, Regina alerted us to pruning cuttings that were left lying between the vine rows. In most instances, these are immediately removed from the vineyard and burned because many contain fungal spores from pathogens that infect grapevines through pruning wounds. These fungi overwinter in infected wood and can be dispersed by wind, rain, or pruning tools, leading to new infections. Burning infected material destroys these spores and prevents their spread. However, Dodon has decided that instead of creating a sterile vineyard environment they mulch the dormant pruning wood, dilute and spread across the vineyard in order for the vines to build nature resistance to the spores.

    Finally, Tom met our group within the winery and the conversation eventually turned to Pierce's Disease. This is a lethal plant disease caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa, which infects grapevines and other crops by colonizing their xylem— the water-conducting tissues.  This blockage disrupts water and nutrient transport, leading to symptoms such as leaf scorching (browning along margins), premature leaf drop (leaving petioles attached, known as "matchsticks"), stunted growth, shriveled fruit, and eventually vine death within 1–5 years.  The disease is primarily transmitted by xylem-feeding insects, especially sharpshooter leafhoppers and spittlebugs. Traditionally this disease affected mostly southern vineyards, as the bacteria died over winter from colder temperatures. But as winter temperatures have increased Pierce's Disease pressures have increased as well. The standard practice is to rip out affected and surrounding vines and to spray to eliminate the sharpshooters. Instead, Dodon is removing sharpshooter favored habitat (i.e Sycamore & Sweetgum trees and various wetland plants) and replacing with locust & willow trees as well as aromatic herbs that repel sharpshooters and attract beneficial insects that feed on the sharpshooter eggs. 

    A Quiet Model for Maryland and East Coast Agriculture

    The Vineyards at Dodon offers a measured, practical example of how regenerative farming can be integrated into a commercial vineyard. The work is incremental and grounded in observation, but its direction is clear: healthier soils, more resilient ecosystems, and a farming model that respects the complexity of nature.  To learn more attend Tom's presentations at the Eastern Winery Exposition

    View similar articles on Regenerative Farming

    "And despite increasingly difficult conditions, when these methods are combined with meticulous canopy management, yields and fruit quality have consistently improved. It is a resilient, healthy ecosystem living in harmony and reciprocity with its human inhabitants." -- The Vineyards at Dodon




  • The Essence of the Olive: Croatia's Adriatic Influence

    Posted: 2026-03-04 14:04
    Croatian olive oil has deep roots along the Adriatic coast, where olives have been cultivated since ancient Greek and Roman times. The country’s long, narrow coastline and its many islands create a patchwork of microclimates that suit olive trees particularly well. Dalmatia and Istria became early centers of production, and historical records show that olive oil was an important trade good in coastal towns from the Middle Ages onward. In the past few decades, Croatia has seen a renewed focus on quality, with small and mid‑sized producers investing in modern mills and careful harvesting practices. This shift has helped Croatian oils gain recognition for their clarity of flavor and strong sense of place.

    Croatia’s olive varieties reflect its regional diversity. Oblica, the most widespread Dalmatian variety, produces a balanced oil with gentle bitterness and notes of fresh herbs. In Istria, Buža and Istarska Bjelica are common; Buža tends to yield a softer, fruit‑forward oil, while Bjelica is known for its peppery finish and higher polyphenol content. Other local varieties such as Lastovka, Levantinka, and Drobnica contribute to blends that highlight the character of specific islands or coastal areas. These cultivars, shaped by rocky soils and maritime winds, give Croatian olive oil its distinctive profile.

    Why dip into Croatian EVOO? According to Selo®, a grower and producer on the Adriatic near Zadar.

     "Croatian extra virgin olive oil is unique due to the combination of climate, soil, and expertise of the local producers. The olive trees are grown on the sunny hillsides of the Adriatic coast, which provides an ideal environment for the olives to ripen and develop their flavor. The Adriatic region’s higher-than-average rainfall contributes to the oil's distinctive profile, with Croatian oils characterized by a high mean oleic fatty acid content (a monounsaturated fat, MUFA) averaging 70.4%, and a high palmitic fatty acid content (a saturated fat) averaging 13.43%. Additionally, the oil contains a medium level of linoleic fatty acid (a polyunsaturated fat, PUFA), averaging 11.22%, which is lower than oils from drier regions like Spain, Greece, and Italy, where linoleic acid levels are often higher, sometimes exceeding 15%. These fatty acid profiles, influenced by Croatia's unique climate, contribute to the oil's balance of flavor and health benefits. Croatian producers also use traditional methods of harvesting and pressing the olives, which helps to preserve the quality and taste of the oil."

    Another producer, Broč stands out for its focus on careful cultivation and small‑batch milling. Based in Dalmatia, more specifically, the northern side of the island of Brač, the Šantić family works primarily with Oblica and their groves include 1200 old olive trees planted by their grandfathers. They draw on the region’s long tradition of olive growing while applying modern sustainability and extraction techniques. Starting in 2011, they introduced sheep to enhance soil health, fertilization, and vegetation management.   Their oils tend to emphasize freshness and well‑defined flavors.. Broč’s approach illustrates how Croatian olive oil continues to evolve: rooted in history, shaped by local varieties, and guided by a commitment to thoughtful, quality‑driven production.

  • Grape Spotlight: Peña Garnacha and the Calatayud DO

    Posted: 2026-02-27 07:00

    Calatayud is a high‑altitude appellation in Aragón in northeastern Spain, set among rugged hills and river valleys shaped by the Jalón and Jiloca rivers. Vineyards here sit between 650 and 900 meters (2,100–3,000 feet), making it one of Spain’s highest red‑wine regions. The climate is continental—hot, dry summers; cold winters; and wide day‑night temperature swings that help preserve acidity. Much of the terrain is a patchwork of slate, schist, and iron‑rich clay, soils that stress the vines just enough to concentrate flavor. Although winegrowing in the area dates back to Roman times, Calatayud’s modern revival has centered on reclaiming old bush‑trained vineyards and spotlighting Garnacha as the region’s signature grape.

    Garnacha thrives in this environment. The grape ripens late and handles heat and drought well, but in Calatayud the altitude adds freshness and structure. Many of the vines are 40–100 years old, low‑yielding plants with deep roots and naturally small clusters. Wines from these vineyards tend to be deeply colored, with red and black fruit, herbal notes, and a firm mineral line from the stony soils. The combination of elevation and old vines gives Garnacha from Calatayud a balance that’s harder to achieve in warmer, lower‑lying areas.

    Peña -- crafted by Master of Wine Norrel Robertson -- is one of the labels that captures this style cleanly. The wine is sourced from older bush vines planted on rocky slopes, where the soils are thin and the yields modest. In the glass, Peña Garnacha (aka "Garnacha Club") is medium‑bodied with ripe red fruit—cherry, raspberry, and a touch of plum—supported by subtle spice and a faint earthiness. The acidity is bright, a hallmark of the region’s elevation, and the tannins are gentle but present. It’s a straightforward, honest expression of Calatayud: fruit‑driven, lifted, and shaped by the landscape rather than heavy winemaking.


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