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  • The Essence of the Olive: How do Olive Trees Pollinate

    Posted: 2026-04-24 11:10
    A couple weeks ago I saw a post from Cobram Estate discussing wind‑driven pollination and decided this topic needed a deep dive in The Essence of the Olive. Many olive trees are self-fertile - such as the Greek Koroneiki cultivar planted in Laconiko's orchards. On the other hand, other olive trees require a compatible partner to achieve meaningful fertilization.

    Olive trees (Olea europaea) rely on a strictly wind‑driven pollination system in which large quantities of lightweight pollen are released from the anthers (1) and dispersed through the canopy and across nearby trees. The flowers themselves are small and pale, producing no scent or nectar, which is consistent with anemophily (wind pollination) rather than insect‑mediated pollination. Each inflorescence contains both perfect flowers, which have functional male and female organs, and staminate flowers, which contain only stamens and contribute primarily to pollen production. During bloom, airborne pollen grains land on receptive stigmas, germinate, and grow pollen tubes toward the ovule. Successful fertilization depends on both environmental conditions—such as moderate temperatures and dry weather during anthesis—and the genetic compatibility between the pollen and the flower receiving it.

    Although olive trees produce abundant pollen, many cultivars exhibit partial or complete self‑incompatibility, meaning that their own pollen is unable to fertilize their flowers effectively. In these cases, the pollen tube is slowed or blocked before reaching the ovule, resulting in very low fruit set when only a single cultivar is present. Even cultivars considered self‑fertile often show improved fruit set, more regular bearing, and higher yields when cross‑pollinated by a genetically distinct variety with overlapping bloom. The degree of self‑compatibility varies widely: some cultivars can set fruit with their own pollen under favorable conditions, while others require a compatible partner to achieve meaningful fertilization. Because wind dispersal is most effective over short distances, orchards typically interplant compatible cultivars within the same block to ensure that pollen from one variety reaches the flowers of another during the brief window of stigma receptivity.

    In practical terms, the presence of multiple varieties is not universally required, but it is beneficial in most production settings and essential for self‑incompatible cultivars. Cross‑pollination supports more consistent fruiting, reduces the risk of poor set in years with marginal weather, and aligns with the reproductive biology of a species that evolved to favor outcrossing. As a result, orchard design commonly incorporates at least two cultivars with synchronized bloom periods to take advantage of the natural wind‑driven pollination system that underpins olive reproduction.

    (1) Anthers are the pollen-producing structures located at the tip of the stamen, which is the male reproductive organ of a flower. The primary function of the anther is to produce, store, and release pollen for plant reproduction.  When the pollen is mature, the anther undergoes a process called dehiscence, where it splits open to disperse the pollen grains via wind, insects, or other animals, facilitating fertilization of the female parts of the flower.

  • Tropical Wine in South Florida's Schnebly Redland's Winery

    Posted: 2026-04-20 06:30
    Florida’s Redland agricultural district is a historic farming region in southern Miami‑Dade County, defined by its distinctive red clay soils over oolitic limestone (sedimentary rock formed from ooids, spherical grains composed of concentric layers) and a long tradition of subtropical and tropical crop production. Settled in the early 20th century after the expansion of Henry Flagler’s Florida East Coast Railway, the area became a hub for mangoes, avocados, lychees, and other fruits rarely grown at scale elsewhere in the continental United States.

    Schnebly Redland’s Winery leverages it's Redland location by growing and sourcing tropical fruit within a four mile radius of the agricultural district for their innovative fruit‑based winemaking. Known as the southernmost winery in the continental United States, the operation was started by Peter and Denisse Schnebly and offers an immersive experience shaped by waterfalls, tiki huts, and expansive gardens. The tasting room and grounds are surrounded by coral stone blocks and thatch roofs, enclosing the facility in a tropical village. Entering the grounds visitors pass a koi pond and then to a large covered pavilion. 

    The winery produces a range of dry to sweet still and sparkling wines from avocado, lychee, mango, coconut, guava, pineapple, carambola (starfruit), and passion fruit. Quite a portfolio.  I've been a fan of their dry avocado wine (AvoVino) for many years - I just find it truly unique and flavorful.  Why avocado wine?  The story goes that was an avocado  field where the fruit was too overripe for resale, so they tested their ability to make wine out of the single-seeded berry. And it worked.  The Carambola was another top choice providing a juicy pear-like profile finishing with a little almond bitterness. Oddly, it was very similar to to a Herzegovina Žilavka that we opened the next day.  Finally, the off-dry CocoVino - made exclusively from coconuts - was our third option.  Think lemons and coconuts.  The winery had a special purchase three with a free bottle and we choose the semi-sweet Mango - just to have a wine with a stronger tropical profile and to eventually experiment with some rum cocktails.  

    Although we didn't spend too much time at the winery, Schnebly Redland's Winery is a destination with a restaurant, live music pavilion, and the Miami Brewing Company within the complex. Try the Big Rod Coconut Ale to stay in the tropical theme. 

  • Exploring Old Town Key West’s Distilleries and Breweries

    Posted: 2026-04-16 08:44
    Exploring Key West’s craft beverage scene is unusually simple thanks to the close proximity of several notable producers. Within a short walking radius in Old Town, visitors can move from two rum distilleries to three breweries while learning about the history behind each brand and the products they make. Key West Legal Rum, Papa’s Pilar Rum, Southernmost Pint Brewpub, The Waterfront Brewery, and First Flight Island Restaurant & Brewery each offer a distinct perspective on local production, yet all are easy to visit in a single, unhurried loop.

    Start your tour along the harbor at The Waterfront Brewery and enjoy lunch and a flight watching the boats sail in. The brewery opened a decade ago and produces a wide range of beers including pilsners, IPAs, porters, and rotating specialty releases. Its production facility and taproom share the same building, allowing guests to see the brewing equipment while sampling the core lineup. Their Crazy Lady Blonde Golden Ale is a stable throughout the island and you can probably find Island Life Lager in several establishments - definitely at Hanks. For my money, go with the Danny Gunz ESB (Extra Special Bitter).

    Head west from the harbor and enter the life of Ernest Hemingway. Papa’s Pilar Rum is named after Hemingway’s famous boat and the brand was created to reflect the writer’s connection to Key West and his global travels. The distillery occupies a former naval warehouse and produces blended rums sourced from multiple regions, aged and finished on-site. Core products include the Blonde Rum and Dark Rum, each with defined profiles shaped by solera-style aging and barrel finishing. I highly recommend the tour which provides excellent information on the history of molasses and rum production through the eyes of the British Navy and American colonists.  

    The tour turns to Hemingway's life and how the distillery incorporates various aspects such as the unique bottle shape -- mimicking Hemingway's GI canteen. Apparently he carried two canteens, one filled with rum. The visit ends with a sampling of several expressions including a Rye finished rum and Sherry finished rum.  My favorite was the Papa's Pilar Flagship Blonde Rum which is sourced from several sources from the Dominican Republic, Venezuela, Panama, and Florida; then Solara blended and finished from ex-Bourbon barrels and Spanish Oloroso Sherry casks.  Enjoy neat to savior the vanilla and banana notes or in a Mojito. 

    Key West Legal Rum was founded by chef and entrepreneur Paul Menta and operates out of a restored 1900s-era tobacco warehouse -- just a block away from Papa's Pilar. The distillery focuses on small-batch, pot-distilled rums made from Florida sugarcane. Their lineup includes the Key West First Legal Rum (a white rum showcasing the Demerara sugar cane),  Key West Bad Bitch Rum Spanish Marie (aged in French oak barrels that held Pinot Noir wine for seven years.) and several flavored expressions that highlight local ingredients such as Key lime and coconut. Yet, their most interesting and tasteful product is the Key West Raw and Unfiltered Rum.  It is aged in new American oak barrels with a #3 char where each barrel was cured in salt water from the ocean. As the salt dries on the inside of the barrel, it seals in and condenses the rich flavors of the charred American oak. This rum is very complex - lots cooking spices covered in honey.

    Moving along, the Southernmost Pint Brewpub is only a few minutes away. Founded by Tadd Maudlin with the Blast Beer Company, the brewpub focuses on approachable, island‑appropriate beer styles. For instance, the 3.3% and fantastic English Dark Mild: Birmingham Pub. Include that beer in every flight. I continued with the Southernmost Pint Golden Ale, Heck Yeah Helles LagerKey West Cream Ale, and Key Lime Gose Sour. All were delicious and right on style - particularly the Cream Ale which avoided the sweet lactose overdose of many versions and concentrated on crystal clear flavors.  You won't find a stop with this range of delicious expressions. 

    Finish your excursion with the longest segment -- passing Sloppy Joe's, Rick's, and Captain Tony's -- to First Flight Island Restaurant & Brewery. The brewery is located in the building where Pan American World Airways was founded in 1927, the site originally served as the airline’s first office and ticketing headquarters.  Thus, expect an aviation theme.  In that regard, before rebranding in 2017, the location was home to Kelly’s Caribbean Bar, Grill & Brewery -- owned by Top Gun actress Kelly McGillis. The brewery produces a core lineup of Old Havana Red Amber Ale,  Capt. Maverick IPA, and the Sunset Clipper Citrus Wheat.  Unfortunately the restaurant was hosting a wedding during our visit, so we detoured across the street to Hank's Hair of the Dog Saloon and a meal at Garbo's Gill paired with the Waterfront's Island Life Lager

    What ties these five locations together is their accessibility. All are situated within a compact section of Old Town, eliminating the need for transportation and allowing visitors to move easily from one producer to the next. The short distances make it possible to learn about the history of each brand, understand the products they make, and experience Key West’s beverage landscape in a single, efficient route. Cheers to Key West and these unique craft beverage producers. 

  • The Essence of the Olive: Understanding Moroccan Olive Oil

    Posted: 2026-04-06 07:00
    Morocco is one of the world’s major olive‑oil‑producing countries, with a cultivation history that stretches back thousands of years. Archaeological evidence indicates that wild olive trees existed in the region as early as the 9th millennium BC, and scholarly debate continues over whether indigenous Berber communities may have domesticated olives before Phoenician traders arrived around 1000 BC. Linguistic evidence supports this possibility: the Berber word for the cultivated olive tree, Azemmour, has no Semitic roots, suggesting an origin predating Phoenician influence. The Romans later expanded olive cultivation significantly. During the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, the Romans established extensive groves and oil‑pressing facilities across Mauretania Tingitana, with archaeological sites such as Volubilis preserving well‑designed ancient mills that illustrate the scale of production during this period.

    Olive growing has remained embedded in Moroccan agriculture and daily life ever since, with many families continuing to manage small groves using practices passed down through generations. Today, Morocco produces roughly 140,000 to 250,000 metric tons of olive oil annually, depending on harvest conditions, and maintains more than 1.2 million hectares of olive trees across diverse microclimates. 

    The country’s olive sector is dominated by a single cultivar, Picholine Marocaine, which accounts for approximately 96% of national production. It is a Moroccan variant of the French Picholine olive from the Languedoc region. This variety produces oils that are typically fruity, slightly bitter, and peppery, with notable almond‑like notes and naturally high polyphenol content. Beldi is an umbrella term for local, heirloom Moroccan varieties which includes Moroccan Picholine. Two additional varieties - Haouzia and Menara - are also cultivated, contributing robust or milder, buttery characteristics to blended oils .

    Olive trees thrive across several key regions, each contributing distinct characteristics to the country’s oils. Meknes is widely recognized as Morocco’s primary olive‑oil region and holds Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status for its extra virgin oils. The Fez–Marrakech plains contain extensive traditional orchards that tend to produce slightly bitter, structured oils, while coastal areas such as Essaouira and Agadir yield more delicate, fruity profiles. High‑altitude groves in the Atlas Mountains add further diversity due to their unique microclimates . Harvesting typically occurs from October to January, often by hand to avoid bruising the fruit. Olives are then transported quickly to mills, where both traditional stone presses and modern centrifugal systems are used. Cold‑pressing remains standard practice to preserve quality and minimize oxidation, supporting the production of extra virgin oils with strong sensory and nutritional attributes.


    This Moresh Moroccan Extra Virgin Olive Oil was available through Publix, but its also sold through Wholefoods. Its the first Moroccan olive oil with traceability - with all single origin information available through scanning the QR code on the bottle. This information includes origin, harvest dates, bottling date, test results, and certifications. The Beldi Moroccan Picholine olives for this bottle were grown from dry sun drenched estates throughout Morocco mostly from Marrakech, Meknes, and Fes. This oil contain a number of early harvested olives which elevate the polyphenol count to 360 mg/kg at bottling. The olive oil starts with a smooth buttery almond flavor that eventually leads to a slightly peppery and bitter finish. 
  • Grape Spotlight: San Marco from Trentino-Alto Adige to the Outer Coastal Plain AVA

    Posted: 2026-04-01 15:42

    San Marco is a Vitis vinifera red wine grape created in 1993 by breeder Marco Stefanini at the Fondazione Edmund Mach in Trentino-Alto Adige. It is a cross of the very popular Trentino-Alto Adige grapes Teroldego × Lagrein in order to create a wine grape that ripens fully in cooler climates; resist botrytis better than its parents; and still produced deeply colored and structured wines. 

    In 2011, Larry Coia of Bellview Winery visited the Foundation Edmund Mach and learned about EC02 - the name originally given to this grape. Trentino-Alto Adige experiences hot summers, cold winters, and significant diurnal shifts which are conditions similar to parts of the U.S. East Coast. Thus, through his recommendation,  the following year the Outer Coastal Plain Vineyard Association (OCPVA) imported the grape into the U.S.. Following release from quarantine, the OCPVA trademarked the name as San Marcus and through a petition from Bellview Winery, the TTP approved use of San Marco as a registered grape variety.

    The Outer Coastal Plain AVA, established in 2007 and expanded in 2017, stretches across 2.25 million acres of southern and southeastern New Jersey, making it one of the largest and most quietly influential winegrowing regions on the East Coast. The region’s defining feature is its uniform soil profile—well‑drained sandy and sandy‑loam soils derived from ancient coastal sediments, naturally low in fertility and pH, which help control vine vigor and encourage deep rooting. Climatically, the AVA benefits from a 188‑ to 217‑day growing season, moderate rainfall, and the moderating effects of the Atlantic Ocean and Delaware Bay, which reduce frost risk and temper heat spikes.

    San Marco thrives in environments with hot summers, cold winters, and when planted in sandy and clay soils. It buds late helping to shield from Spring frost and produces medium sized and loose clusters. It seems more suited for VSP training and shares a similar late-midseason harvest as Cabernet Franc. Although it is resistant to botrytis, it is not resistant to black rot or downy mildew.

    Autumn Lake Winery, located in Williamstown, New Jersey, is one of the Outer Coastal Plain AVA producers actively developing and releasing wines from San Marco. I was able to sample their 2021 San Marco at the 2026 Eastern Winery Exposition and was impressed with the dark fruit, structure, and smooth tannins shown by this wine. 


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