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  • Puglia's Amaro Salento: Bitter Liqueurs and Limoncello

    Posted: 2025-07-16 16:04
    Throughout Puglia we had seen bottles of Amaro Salento Classico in various grocery stores and restaurants and by chance we were passing near their Veglie distillery on our drive to Porto Cesareo. Hoping to tour the facility we pulled in to find founder Realino Mazzotta out front but unfortunately learned we could enter the distillery. However, he called for his son Francesco to bring us a samples of several products and it was immediately evident that our detour was a prudent decision. 

    The inspiration for Amaro Salento s.r.l. started in the 1940s when Realino's father Raffaele opened Bar Venezia in the center of the small town of Veglie.  Realino remembers him serving coffee corretto - a "correct" coffee with extra sugar and augmented with a bitter liqueur. During this time in Salento, home-made liqueurs were a common activity with very few commercialized spirits. Only in a few bars - like Bar Venezia - was it possible to sample liqueurs crafted from the maceration of native herbs and roots. 

    The recipe used by Raffaele was never officially written down and was suggested by a monk from the nearby convent of the Friars Minor of San Giuseppe da Copertino.  This liqueur was apparently much much beloved by the American soldiers stationed in the town after the Liberation. And from our experience beloved by American tourists 75 years later. Sadly Raffaele died when Realino was young and the recipe was lost.

    As life lead Realino to become an esteemed international conductor, he "maintained spiritual contact with his father by traveling through the fields and along the Ionian coast to collect rare herbs. Over the years, research also spilled over into libraries, through a meticulous selection of manuscripts that referenced some 'Herbe amarissime' (1767, Life of Saint Joseph of Cupertino – Domenico Bernino) that the saint used during penitential fasts."  

    In 2014 Amaro Salento s.r.l. was born with the release of Amaro Salento Classico with the Amarissimo released a year later.  Francesco relayed that the Classico was more in line with a sweeter amaro whereas the Amarissimo was aligned to a fernet. I chose the Classico and specifically it is comprised of 45 herbs, vegetables, roots, peels, seeds, flowers, and rhizomes, including cinchona, gentian, bitter and sweet orange, elderberry, wormwood, chamomile, pigeon pea, and quassia. Some of these botanicals I've never heard of. But this is a fantastic representation of an amaro - much nicer than most of the selections we tasted throughout Italy. 

    We also purchased two other bottles - their Limoncello Salento and Bitter Rurale. The Limoncello is practically finished after being served nightly since our return as a palate cleansing digestif.  It explodes with lemon flavor. Yet the biggest surprise has been the Bitter Rurale; throw out the Campari. It is a fantastic maceration of bitter orange, sweet orange, Roman wormwood, pomegranate, cascarilla, cinchona, gentian, and quassia. This bitter liqueur will be deeply missed after our last sip or Negroni.
  • Getting Acquainted with Fernet-Branca

    Posted: 2025-07-18 07:38
    Who enjoys Fernet-Branca? We were able to tour their Milano facility and even though Italian was spoken, learned plenty.

    Fernet-Branca's history began in 1845 when Bernardino Branca,  a self-taught herbalist, formulated this bitter liqueur. He and his sons marketed it as a cure for many common ailments and eventually started exporting throughout the world. We learned that they started exporting to Argentina in 1905 and this country is easily its top market. They even build an Argentinean distillery in 1925.

    The exact composition of botanicals and herbs are secret but we saw a wheel that includes most of the ingredients. These are sourced from all over the globe and include Chinese rhubarb, Aloe ferox (bitter aloe), cinchona, chocolate, quinine, angelica, gentian, galanga, chamomile, linden (Tiliae flos), iris, saffron, zedoary, myrrh, and cinchona.  Fernet-Branca has a higher alcohol content, at 39%, and lower sugar content than most other amaro and is aged in large barrique barrels. This helps explain its unique profile.  

    Apparently, Argentineans and  Italians prefer consuming Fernet-Branca over ice with Coke. I would rather someone suggest an alternative cocktail.


  • Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month for June 2025: Lo-Alcohol Sparkling Negroni Sbagliato

    Posted: 2025-06-13 06:00
    Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month
    for June 2025: The Lo-Alcohol Sparkling Negroni Sbagliato Cocktail. Simply add gin and amaro to a shaker. Shake for 10-20 seconds and top with sparkling wine. 

    Ingredients 
    1 1/2 ounces Gin: Sipsong Spring Gin 
    1 1/2 ounces Campari or Amaro: Don Ciccio & Figli Luna 
    1 1/2 ounces or more non-alcoholic sparkling wine: Zilch Brut Bubbles 

    Sipsong Spirits is located in Sonoma County and the brand is intended to showcase Sonoma to the world. Spring Gin was inspired by the first days of spring. This seasonal gin is a snapshot of a fleeting moment in time, quite literally “Distilling The Moment”. Welcome to Spring in Sonoma County Wine Country. The cherry blossoms, orange flowers, fava flowers as well as wild pea shoots and Douglas Fir tips add stunning freshness to this gin along with many other botanicals. 

    Don Ciccio & Figli crafts Italian Herbal Liqueurs in Washington, D.C. most based on old family recipes born on the Amalfi coast. The recipe for their Luna Aperitivo dates to 1894 and this is a dark red-colored liqueur, with a multi-faceted bitter sweetness. Taste highlights begin with grapefruit, prickly pear, gentian lutea and chicory, and the party is joined by notes of rhubarb and vanilla. 

    Zilch Zero Alcohol Brut Bubbles is a sparkling drink made using Carbonated Water, White Grape Juice Concentrate, Malic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Metabisulphite (as preservatives). It is very white grape juice forward - not Niagara - but essentially white grape juice with subtle bits of stone fruit. Decent effervescence. Comes across a little sweet based on the fruit forward character of the juice and 0g added sugars. SRP is $15.



  • Grape Spotlight: McLaren Vale & Barossa Valley Grenache at the Rediscover Australia Roadshow

    Posted: 2025-06-05 07:48
    Grenache (also known as Garnacha in Spain) is one of the world’s most widely planted and celebrated red wine grape varieties. Known for its juicy fruit character, soft tannins, and adaptability to warm climates, Grenache is the backbone of some of the most beloved wines from France, Spain, and the New World. 

    Grenache is typically a medium- to full-bodied red wine with a bright, fruit-forward character. Despite its juicy fruitiness, Grenache usually has soft tannins and moderate acidity, making it an approachable and versatile wine. It’s known for flavors of:

    • Ripe red berries: raspberry, strawberry, cherry
    • Subtle spice: white pepper, cinnamon, clove
    • Herbal and floral notes: lavender, thyme, dried herbs
    • Earthy undertones: leather, tobacco, garrigue (a term for Mediterranean brushland scents)

    Grenache is believed to have originated in the Aragón region of northern Spain. From there, it spread across the Mediterranean, finding a natural home in southern France’s Rhône Valley, as well as in Italy’s Sardinia (where it’s called Cannonau). Today, Grenache is grown in nearly every major wine-producing country, including the sun-drenched vineyards of McLaren Vale to the ancient soils of the Barossa Valley. 

    I was able to witness these expressions first hand during a recent Rediscover Australia Roadshow tasting at the Australian Embassy where I was blown away by the single varietal Grenache wines as well as a few GSM (or SGM) blends.

    Grenache has a long history in Australia, first planted in the 19th century by European settlers. Initially used in fortified wines, Grenache found new life in the late 20th and early 21st centuries as winemakers began to appreciate its potential for producing elegant, medium-bodied reds that thrive in Australia’s warm climate. 

    McLaren Vale is known for its diverse portfolio of grape varieties that reflects the region's varied grape-growing conditions -- most notably due to topographical factors and proximity to the cooling influences of the Gulf Saint Vincent. Altitudes differ markedly according to the location, and different mesoclimates are created as a result of varying degrees of exposure to the Mount Lofty Ranges in the north and the Sellicks Ranges in the south. Overall, the climate is Mediterranean, with fresh sea breezes helping to moderate temperatures during the growing season. Chilly winds from the hills also cool the grapes on specific vineyard sites, helping to retain acidity and structure. McLaren Vale boasts some of the country’s oldest Grenache vines, some over a century old. Here, Grenache is often grown in sandy soils that impart a delicate perfume and supple texture to the wines. 

    The Barossa Valley is a compact region with a variable landscape of gently elevated terrain and flat valley floors. The overall climate is hard to categorize as conditions vary – not only due to the elevation but also because of the inland locations and the coastal influence. The valley floors are very hot during summer, with temperatures often exceeding 95°F (35°C). This, along with scant rainfall and limited natural water in the soil, makes irrigation essential.  The Barossa Valley is home to the oldest still-producing Grenache vines in the world courtesy of Cirillo Estate Wines and thanks to the absence of the phylloxera louse. In general, the Barossa Valley produces Grenache with a touch more structure and savory depth. These wines often show layers of dark cherry, licorice, and gentle spice, underscoring the complexity that Grenache can achieve in the right hands.

    Here are the Grenache single varietal wines and Grenache blends that raised our consciousness regarding the Australian version of this classic grape variety. 

    Yangarra Estate Vineyard 'High Sands' McLaren Vale Grenache 2021 ($300)
    Yes, out of our price range but crafted from old-vine (1946) Grenache grapes grown in the sandy soils of the High Sands vineyard. Aged on lees in a combination of old Austrian and French oak foudres, puncheons, and ceramic eggs for 11 months. Exceptional.

    Seppeltsfield Barossa Grenache 2021 ($24)
    This wine is made from Grenache grapes sourced from Seppeltsfield plantings on the western ridge of the Barossa. It is made in a ‘joven’ style without any oak maturation which allows the natural fruit characters of this grape variety to shine. This wine was vinified through the historic 1888 Gravity Cellar– which is highly regarded for its small batch format and gentle maceration. Built into the hillside on a series of terraces, gravity guides the flow of fruit down through the winery to deliver gentle extraction of color, flavor, and tannin. Mouthwatering. 

    Yalumba Bush Vine Barossa Grenache 2022 ($20)
    This wine is made from old bush vines planted between 1920 and 1965 in various vineyards across he Barossa Valley floor. A range of terroir, including climate and soil types, can be found at each site, helping to make this individual and intriguing style of Grenache. Love it. 

    Yalumba Tri-Centenary Vineyard Barossa Grenache 2022 ($60)
    This wine is made from Grenache grapes from 820 gnarly old bush vines that were planted in 1889 at the Ancestor Vineyard in Greenock -- two acres of deep sandy loam soil over red-brown clay. The wine undergoes an unusually long maceration period of 372 days post-fermentation, which contributes to its silky texture and refined palate. Fantastic.

    Paxton McLaren Vale Grenache 2022 ($33)
    The grapes are harvested from bush-vines planted in ancient soil formations at their Thomas Block vineyard. This vineyard experiences colder than average McLaren Vale mornings, and warm summer days, providing the perfect ripening conditions for producing the most elegant of Grenache. Luscious.

    John Duval Wines 'Concillo' Barossa Grenache 2022 ($30)
    The grenache was sourced from survivor bush vines located south of Tanunda along with an old vine parcel from Moppa. After fermentation the wine was matured in a mix of tank (50%) and seasoned French hogsheads (50%) for 8 months. Elegant layers of fruit.

    Zonte's Footstep 'Love Symbol' McLaren Vale Grenache 2021 ($25)
    The grapes were sourced from the Blewitt Springs sub-region of McLaren Vale, known for its ideal conditions for growing grenache. Expect soft-yet-juicy tannins and racy acidity, which create a mouth-watering experience.

    Organic Hill Premium Founders McLaren Vale Grenache 2022 ($25)
    Sourced from NASAA Certified Organic and Bio-dynamically grown grapes at the Organic Hill Wines vineyard which is located in the Golden triangle of McLaren Vale. Probably my favorite. 

    Brash Higgins 'GR/M' McLaren Vale Grenache/Mataro 2020 ($46)
    This wine is a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Mataro sourced from a biodynamically farmed site at Yangarra Estate in McLaren Vale. The grapes were hand-picked and co-fermented using wild yeast in an open fermenter for two weeks, contributing to a harmonious and balanced blend. Soft and silky. 

    Hither & Yon McLaren Vale Grenache/Mataro 2021 ($25)
    This regeneratively farmed wine is a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Mataro from their Hunt and Sand Road Vineyard. The  Grenache was first planted in 1960 using its own rootstock and a heritage clone. The Mataro was established in 2008 and both grapes were planted in an alluvial fan of sand, clay and gravel.  Especially friendly.

    Torbreck 'The Steading' Barossa Valley GSM 2022 ($43)
    The Steading (50% Grenache, 31% Shiraz, and 19% Mataro) is a collection of 45 different sources of fruit, some from our own vineyard estates as well as from growers on a share-farming basis. The wine is a result of the serendipitous discovery of small remnant patches of withered ancient vines, some well over a century old, that have been carefully nurtured back to life. These vines survived the worldwide phylloxera outbreak of the 1880s, and a century later, the vine-pull scheme in the Barossa in the 1980s.   Layers of juicy fruit.

  • Gambero Rosso's Vini D’Italia 2025 Roadshow

    Posted: 2025-05-28 12:28

    On April 30th, Gambero Rosso, Italy's premier food and wine media group, returned to Washington DC celebrating the Vini D’Italia 2025 guidebook! The event featured a walk around tasting of hundreds of Italy’s top Italian wines representing a fraction of the 2,600 wineries and more than 25,000 wines reviewed by the guidebook's experts. As part of the event, Gambero Rosso also hosted a Wines of Abruzzo masterclass in partnership with wines of Consorzio Tutela Vini D'Abruzzo and led by Marco Sabellico, the Editor-In-Chief of the Vini D’Italia 2025 guide.

    The masterclass focused on Pecorino within several different regulatory zones: IGT Pecorino, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino, Colline Pescaresi, and the Tullum DOCG. The wines shared a persistent floral character, and fabulous acidity, while alternating between citrus and tropical fruits. My favorites of the nine featured were the Cascina Del Colle Terre Di Chieti Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Superiore Aimè 2023 and the Cantina Tollo Feudo Antico Pecorino Tullum DOCG Biologico Fermentazoine Spontanea 2023.  The latter is comprised of 100% organically grown Pecorino that was fermented naturally in cement tanks and then rested on its lees for six months.  This is a wonderful wine, golden delicious apples with a true sense of herbaciousness lifted by persistent acidity.  The Aimè is farmed organically and is profoundly more fruit forward with strong ripe peaches and tropical notes. That profile is balanced by lively minerality. Two fantastic wines. 

    Moving into the Embassy's atrium and the walkaround tasting I focused on two regions: Puglia and Lazio. I started with Amastuola, a wine resort and farm located just north of Taranto where they organically farm ten grape varieties. By design, the 100 hectare estate "brings together the two concepts of functionality and aesthetics. The rows of vines were planted on the basis of the design conceived by the great landscape designer Fernando Caruncho. The vine spaliers draw harmonious parallel waves that follow each other for about 3 km. " Their IGP Puglia Bialento di Amastuola 2024 is a blend of Malvasia and Fiano and provides fresh pears, white grapefruit, and herbaceous notes. The IGP Puglia Primitivo di Amastuola 2021 is full bodied dark fruit with layers of light spices and juicy tannins.  Then there's  Negroamaro - a favorite Puglia grape - and their IGP Puglia Negroamaro di Amastuola 2021 shows luscious soft fruit  and a juicy spiced finish. 

    Masca del Tacco is located in the cultural heart of central-northern Salento with 200 hectares of vines within a triangle of Brindisi, Taranto and Lecce. They farm Negroamaro, Primitivo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Fiano, and the Brindisi based Masseria Paticchi vineyard contains the regal Susumaniello grape. They poured a very delicious and surprisingly mineral laden Susumaniello Rosato 2024 and well as the full bodied Susumaniello 2023 with its layers of fresh and inviting fruit.  

    From Lazio and just southeast of Rome, Colle di Maggio introduced us to the indigenous Bombino Blanco grape which they grow in volcanic soils along with Fiano, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. These vines are over 50 years old, are planted 150-200 meters above sea level, and benefit from their proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Bombino Blanca is a late ripening variety and disease tolerant grape primarily used in blends and the Sirio Lazio Bianco IGP is a delicious combination of Chardonnay and Bombino. They release another excellent Chardonnay blend in the Lunapigra Lazio Bianco IGP -- this time paired with Fiano

    Located a little closer to the sea, Casale del Giglio was a most pleasant surprise. The winery started as a small family venture in 1967 then expanded in 1985 with the planting of an experimental vineyard of 60 different vines. This translates today to a large portfolio of a dozen flagship grape varieties, with two very intriguing options: Viognier and Bellone. The Lazio IGP Blanco Viognier is a very rare sighting of this Rhone grape in the Italian landscape and provides full fruit - with layers of peaches and apricots. The Lazio IGP Blanco Bellone shows that this ancient (once sited by Pliny the Elder) and drought resistant grape thrives in the sandy soils close to the sea. The wine shows tropical fruit and fresh acidity that is extremely quaffable. This is one to seek. 



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