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Posted: 2025-01-21 06:00
 Like several successful Virginia wineries, Ducard Vineyards opened 15 years ago during the ascendence of the Commonwealth's wine industry. Their estate is located in a beautiful valley on the eastern edge of the Shenandoah National Park in the shadow of Old Rag Mountain and White Oak Canyon. In the early days Rappahannock Cellars produced award winning wine from their grapes but eventual owner Scott Elliff decided to transition from grape grower to commercial winery. During that he made many wise decisions such as planting grapes suitable for the Virginia climate, starting small when building out the tasting room and production facility, and most importantly, hiring Julien Durantie as winemaker.  The Ducard Norton was the first of their wine to reach our attention and they planted "America's Grape" based on a recommendation from Dennis Horton. The early versions were very acidic but Julien was able to nurture more fruit and less acidity moving to an open lyre vine training system. The results have been several consecutive years of award winning Norton wine.  They have also innovated and expanded their portfolio in terms of grape varieties and styles. Their red wines run through traditional Bordeaux grapes Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot to several red blends. One the paler side, the offer a couple Chardonnays, Viognier, Pinot Gris, as well as blends and a couple effervescent wines: the Pet Gnat and XOXO - both based on Viognier. During my visit Scott curated a flight of four wines he thought best personified DuCard's current lineup.
2022 TANA Chardonnay ($45)
This is a Burgundy style wine where the Chardonnay grapes were harvested from the Estate's TANA vineyard and aged five months in French oak. The fresh citrus and green apple fruit basks with great acidity and length. No cloying butter or oak character. 2022 Cabernet Franc Vintner Reserve ($40) The best fruit from this vintage was sourced from their Whetstone Run vineyard which helps produce layers of dark cherry fruit, some earthiness, and without any sense of methoxypyrazines (aka green pepper). Expect a long, easy finish. 2021 Triskele ($70)
This wine is only made during the best of years (five out of fifteen vintages) and apparently 2021 was one such year. The Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Tannat grapes come from their three vineyard sites. The wine shows floral and herbaceous notes then structured layers of dark fruit with approachable tannins. An excellent wine. 2021 XOXO Sparkling Viognier ($50)
This Hugs and Kisses sparkling wine is made from 100% Viognier from the TANA vineyard where the wine is aged two years on its lees. This leads to noticeable yeast, but an elegant display of subtle stone fruit and a lasting finish.
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Posted: 2025-01-18 09:54
"The overall inspiration for the wine comes from the often asked question, "why not?" This is a popular question here at CV and has led to many different styles of wine we produce. " - Jake Blodinger, winemaker at Chrysalis Vineyards discussing their Buttorfleoge Norton Pet Nat. Since the inception of the modern Virginia wine industry, both Horton Vineyards and Chrysalis Vineyards have been pioneers in its development. This can be seen by their introducing (or re-introducing) popular grape varieties such as Viognier, Petit Manseng, and Norton. In addition, they have been pioneers in creating different styles of wine - notably - sparkling red wine.  The Chrysalis Vineyards 2019 Buttorfleoge ($28) is a rarity. This is a Norton Pét-Nat, a new use for Virginia's native grape. In 2023 there were 130 acres of Norton planted in Virginia (10th most abundant in the Commonwealth(1)). The grape is usually seen as a rich and juicy dry wine that needs a few years in the bottle to tame its astringent nature. Yet, its versatility can be seen in the other styles such as a port-styled wine, a semi-dry lighter offering, and in various blends. But this is the first sparkling I've experienced via Pétillant Naturel using 100% whole-clustered pressed Norton wine. Expect the traditional dark purple color of the Norton but there is an unexpected strong floral note followed by blackberry bubbles. According to Jake Blodinger, winemaker at Chrysalis Vineyards, "using the methode ancestrale technique ‘rediscovered’ in the Loire in the 1990s, this 100% whole-clustered pressed Norton wine is produced using only the natural microflora found at Locksley Estate. This wine is fermented in tank until there is only a small amount of sugar left. At this point, the wine is bottled and laid down to let the fermentation finish. The result is a true, terroir-driven pétillant-naturel (or Pét Nat), and an exciting addition to the Norton lineup here at Chrysalis Vineyards". The Horton Vineyards NV Knots & Shuttles ($24.95) is a another red sparkling wine, this one made from 100% Tannat. Another rarity on many levels. First, Tannat is the 14th most widely planted grape variety in the Commonwealth with only 78 acres planted. For perspective, Cabernet Franc is the most widely planted grape with 661 acres (1). Second, Virginia Tannat is generally bottled in Bordeaux-styled blends or as a single varietal wine depending on its tannic structure and juiciness. But as a sparkling wine? This has to be a first. The wine starts with a black fruit intensity but yields to more finesse once the effervescence starts its escape.
(1) 2023 Virginia Wine 2023 Commercial Wine Grape Report
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Posted: 2024-12-24 08:57
During another quick trip to Lafayette I was able to visit and tour two distilleries in the Gulf area of The Magnolia State: Crittenden Distillery and Circle Hook Distilling.
 Crittenden Distillery is located in Kiln and produces mostly whiskey - bourbon and rye - with several expressions finished in various oak casks. I was fortunate to schedule this trip during their December open house and participated in a full distillery tour and tasting. During the tour, owner Matt Crittenden showed us their distilling process from the raw ingredients, to the mash tank and fermenting tanks, and the column still. After discussing the various fermenting temperatures and yeast features we moved out back to the rick house -- loaded with 53 gallon charred American white oak barrels.     Afterwards we returned to the tasting bar in which the distillery offered a generous sampling of practically their entire portfolio. This started with their flagships Cut Above Bottled in Bond Bourbon and Cut Above Bottled in Bond Rye Whiskey. Both were the first Bottled in Bond whiskies produced in Mississippi and are a little hot at 100 proof, but dampened down they are excellent examples within their respective categories. I didn't sample their the other flagship - Kiln Shine - but went to the various finished expressions. Crittenden sources a unique mixture of used casks from Scotland, Spain, Hungary, Brazil, and elsewhere. I had tasted the Sherry Finished Cut Above Bourbon in my previous visit and that is one of their best. I purchased a bottle of the Cut Above Bourbon Tokaji with it's hint of sweetness; but my favorite was easily the Cut Above Bourbon Tara - a four year old whiskey finished in Brazilian Amburana casks. Three bottles of bourbon should keep me satisfied until my next trip south.  Circle Hook Distilling is not open to the public but I was able to attend their first ever Open House. They are located just north of I-10 in Gulfport and produce rum from a mixture of cane syrup, cane sugar, and molasses sourced from Franklin, Louisiana. They also created a very small batch Agricole-Style Rum made from cane juice grown at an extension farm at Mississippi State University. And the distillery's name pays homage to the family's main occupation: Alaskan salmon fishers.  During this open house, owners Ely and Amy Underhill provided an overview of their operation through fermentation to distillation in the copper pot still; offered pure cane juice from freshly crushed sugar cane; and poured samples of their rum expressions. My favorites were the two standard offerings, the Circle Hook Silver Rum and Circle Hook Original Rum. They are bottled at 84 and 86 proof respectively and capture the essence of slow fermentation, micro-distillation runs, and the blending of two distillates - one molasses based and the other cane syrup based. The Silver provides way more body and character than your average unaged rum with subtle herbaceous notes. The Original is aged in smaller new American oak barrels, and like Crittenden, takes advantage of the Mississippi climate that helps impart plenty of baking spices into the rum. Yet, the beauty of this expression is that the oak influences are not overwhelming and the spices blend seamlessly into the cane character. A little heat encourages cocktail usage.  The distillery also offers smaller batch rums like the aforementioned Agricole-Style Rum which is made from pure cane juice and then aged in new American oak barrels for approximately two years in order to mute the funky truffle, grassy, and herbaceous notes. The Circle Hook Distiller's Reserve is the expression that caught my attention on social media since the product is a blend of rums derived from Circle Hook's new American oak barrels as well as from A Cut Above Bourbon barrel from Crittenden Distillery. The cask strength Reserve is naturally boubon-ish and the oak imparts plenty of character where the rum fights to be heard. For this reason, I preferred the Original, but it is most likely in the wheelhouse of cigar and whiskey lovers. The final expression I tasted was a soon to be released Coconut Rum made with real toasted coconuts. This will be very popular. Find this and their other rums from shops ranging from Baton Rouge to the panhandle.
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Posted: 2024-12-12 09:47
 | | Courtesy of vineyards.com |
The Canary Islands archipelago is an interesting region for growing grapes as it is the most tropical of Europe's wine regions. Lying off the west coast of Morocco, the tropical climate is generally hot and humid but there are numerous micro-climates and topographical features that make wine production possible. The altitude of the stone-terrace vineyards is vital and for the majority, it ranges from 1,600-3,300 feet above sea level, providing a string diurnal temperature change. This ensures that freshness and acidity are maintained in the grapes. Volcanic soils are also beneficial to grape growing. The soil imparts mineral and subtle, mineral notes to the otherwise largely aromatic wines. And because of its isolation from the European mainland, phylloxera never reached the archipelago and imported rootstock was never needed. Thus Canarian wines are made from old and ungrafted vines. Wine is made on seven of the eight main islands, encompassing 11 Denominaciones de Origen Protegida (DOPs), the overall Islas Canarias DOP, five individual island DOPs, and five located on the largest island - Tenerife: Abona, Tacoronte-Acentejo, Valle de Guimar, Valle de la Orotava and Ycoden-Daute-Isora. In order, these encompass the southern coast, northeast coast, southeast coast, northwest, and western part of Tenerife.  | Courtesy of Bodega El Lomo |
Along with Malvasia, Listán Blanco is the most popular white wine grape. The name is a synonym for the popular Jerez sherry grape: Palomino. In Andalucia, the variety has a rather neutral flavor profile, with low acidity and potential alcohol, making it a natural for fortification in Sherry's particular winemaking style. However, in the volcanic soils and high elevation of the Islas Canarias DOP, Listán Blanco achieves much more acidity from the diurnal temperatures and is usually harvested prematurely to give it a touch of freshness. In this instance, it shows light and subtle herbal (fennel), peach and dried fruit aromas which seem to enhance the mineral and saline character of the volcanic terroir.  Bodega El Lomo is located in Tenerife with multiple estates located in distinct microclimates on the island. The estate vineyard ("Fray Luis") is located at 1400 feet above the sea in a volcanic fault with the vines cultivated in terraces. "This farm, according to historical records, has been a vineyard for more than 300 years". Their highest vineyard is "Chío" located at 3600 feet near the Chinyero volcano in the south of the island. And most of their vineyards are located in the northeast of Tenerife averaging 1600 feet.
 The 4 Lías Blanco Seco 2022 is a truly unique wine. The Listán Blanco base is fermented and aged on its lees as well as the lees from three other wines produced that vintage year at the winery. The other lees derive from Malvasía, Albillo Criollo, and Forastera and come from a sheltered vineyard on the northeast side of Tenerife. The Listán Blanco comes from vineyards located over 2800 feet with the vines planted in deep volcanic soil. This is a fantastic complex wine with plenty of ripe stone fruit on the nose with layers of minerality and aggressive acidity. At Jaleo this wine was served with Papas Arrugas (miniature potatoes) and Croquetas de pollo (chicken fritters). Expect $15 or Euros if you can find it in your market.
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Posted: 2024-12-11 14:08
| | Courtesy of vineyards.com |
The Canary Islands archipelago is an interesting region for growing grapes as it is the most tropical of Europe's wine regions. Lying off the west coast of Morocco, the tropical climate is generally hot and humid but there are numerous micro-climates and topographical features that make wine production possible. The altitude of the stone-terrace vineyards is vital and for the majority, it ranges from 1,600-3,300 feet above sea level, providing a string diurnal temperature change. This ensures that freshness and acidity are maintained in the grapes.  | | Courtesy of La Geria Winery |
Volcanic soils are also beneficial to grape growing. The soil imparts mineral and subtle, mineral notes to the otherwise largely aromatic wines. And because of its isolation from the European mainland, phylloxera never reached the archipelago and imported rootstock was never needed. Thus Canarian wines are made from old and ungrafted vines. Wine is made on seven of the eight main islands, encompassing 11 Denominaciones de Origen Protegida (DOPs), the overall Islas Canarias DOP, five individual islands, and five located on the largest island - Tenerife. Today's focus is on the easternmost island - Lanzarote - known for the uniqueness of its volcanic (lunar) landscape. In general, the island has a temperate climate as a result of its proximity to Africa coupled with cooling breezes from the Atlantic Ocean. Plus there is an abnormally large drop in nighttime temperatures enhancing acidity and lengthening the growing season. According to wine-searcher.com, "Lanzarote's landscape was transformed from 1730 to 1736 by a series of volcanic eruptions. It covered around a third of the land in thick black lava and ash and destroyed the island's traditional agricultural crops, such as wheat. However, it created the conditions for the island to start its wine production." Forced to innovate, the vines are planted in cones formed in the lapilli, locally called picón, and additionally protected by small dry stone walls. This type of planting allows the plants to root more easily in the fertile soil, while the upper layer of lapilli reduces evaporation. In addition, the shape of the holes and the additional wall protect the crops from the wind.  | | Courtesy of La Geria Winery |
Listán Negro is the most most cultivated red wine grape planted in the Canary Islands - and is most dominant in the Tacoronte-Acentejo DOP that covers the island of Tenerife. It is a black-skinned grape formed into funnel shaped and compact clusters The berry, itself, is medium-sized, spherical, and blue-black. It adapts very well to northern slopes, medium altitude and more evolved soils with a higher level of clay, where it maintains acidity, achieves good alcohol content and good phenolic ripening. Most interesting is that DNA studies have shown that this grape variety is not a mutation of Palomino Fino (Listan Blanco in the Canary Islands). It is autochthonous to the archipelago. Wines made from Listán Negro vary considerably in style, from rosé wines to light red wines with soft tannins, spice and red berry flavors. La Geria is a sub-region within Lanzarote and the La Geria Winery was originally founded at the end of the 19th century by the Rijo family and acquired by the Melián family in 1993. It is one of the most visited wineries due to the estate's lunar landscape and extensive portfolio. One of these is the La Geria Rosado 2022 which I was fortunate enough to sample during a Canary Island wine lunch held at Jaleo in Washington, D.C. The wine is made in the Saignée style using 100% Listán Negro and then fermented after 12 hours of skin contact. The wine is cheerful - strong aromatics, noticeable texture and minerality, with refreshing acidity. Served with grilled octopus and tapa of shrimp head on, sautéed with garlic sauce. Expect $13 or Euros if you can find it in your market.
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